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Adjusting for the Rough

3h 10m
Lessons 34 lessons
Core Course

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Learn a simple strategy for assessing and adjusting your stock wedge shot for the rough.

A simple five criteria for analyzing the rough are:

  1. Thickness
  2. Length
  3. Direction
  4. Location
    1. Top
    2. Middle
    3. Bottom
  5. Clump behind the ball

This will help you determine how much harder you'll have to swing and how to spin will be influenced. In general, you'll want to use a more open club face and a steeper angle of attack

Video Transcript
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Welcome back, golfers.

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In this next video, we're going to talk about assessing the rough.

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So basically, how are we going to adjust our stock shot for rough shots around

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the green?

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You really have to read the lie, and you have to read the slope.

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In this video, we're going to talk about reading the lie.

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So in general, when we're trying to figure out what the lie is going to do, we

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're trying

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to figure out how much the grass is going to stop the club, or how much

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resistance it's

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going to apply.

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In general, the more resistance, the more I'm going to have to add some speed.

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And then we're trying to figure out how much it's going to influence spin.

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So in general, the more resistance, the less the ball's going to spin, and I'm

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going to

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have to use height to stop the ball.

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So when I'm assessing my lie, I teach five criteria to assess.

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I want to look at the thickness of the grass.

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I want to look at the length of the grass, the direction that the grass is

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growing, the

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location my ball is in in the grass.

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So is it sitting on top of the grass in the middle or all the way at the bottom

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on the

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dirt?

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And then lastly, is there anything behind the golf ball?

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Any clump of grass that I'm going to have to swing through.

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In general, the more the thickness, the longer, the more the ball's sitting

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down, the more I'm

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going to have to add speed to get through the rough and then the less spin that

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I'm going

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to get.

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So typically, I'm going to adjust my stroke in a couple of different ways.

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So in general, the thicker the grass, the more that I'm going to add speed, I'm

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going

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to try to get steeper.

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And then I'm going to rely on height to stop the ball, so I'm going to open the

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club face.

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Typically the ways that we're going to get steeper are either going to be

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leaning a little

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bit more left, possibly choking up on the club, swinging with the shoulders

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getting a little

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bit more steep in the backswing, swinging with the club more up either with

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wrist set

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or with arm motion, staying on that front foot.

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All those things will help steep in the club.

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And then I have to err on getting the club face a little bit more open out of

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the rough,

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but I can either play the ball forward if I want to have the ball pop up and

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use more

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height, or I can play the ball backward if I want more of a medium trajectory

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and I'm

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just going to rely on kind of the length of the shot to stop the ball.

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So we'll talk through some scenarios in the rest of the video when we go

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outside and look

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at some specific lies.

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But in general, this is how we're going to assess each lie before we hit the

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shots around

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the green, out of the rough.

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Okay, so now let's work through the examples out here in the field.

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So we'll work through the two extremes.

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Now in general, when you're practicing out of the rough, one common trend that

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I see

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is for most shots, I want you to take practice swings where you get the club

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all the way

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down to the ground or down to the dirt.

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One of the most common things I see with newer golfers is out of the rough.

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They take practice swings where the club is just skimming the top of the grass.

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That can work when the ball's sitting completely on top, but for most of the

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shots, that's

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going to result in a chunk or a bladed shot.

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Okay, so let's first go through the two extremes.

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First one is ball sitting up.

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This rough, here we are in the morning, so the rough is a little wet so it's

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even thicker.

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I've got ball sitting up and I'm trying to get very little behind it.

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When the ball's sitting up, it's kind of on a tee, there's very little behind

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it.

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I can be more sweepy.

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I can actually do more of kind of almost like a putting stroke where the club

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is very low

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to the ground and kind of wide for a long period of time now.

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So this particular shot, what you'll see is if I'm having this kind of long

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smooth flat

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stroke, I'll tend to get a fair amount of roll, so unfortunately, for this

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close pin,

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I would have to open the club face just a little bit.

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Now, when the ball's sitting up and you have to open the club face, you want to

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be really

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careful that you don't open it up so much so that there's no hitting surface.

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You'll see the club has a certain amount of height, and as it opens, that

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height gets

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narrow and narrower, so if the ball is sitting up a lot, that's when it's very

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easy to go

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underneath the golf ball and just leave it there.

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You do have to risk it a little bit if you need to have some height, but you

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can offset

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that by having a little bit more shaft lean.

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So here we've got ball sitting up, again, we can do a little bit more of a

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sweeping action.

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Lain of that, just a touch short, but overall, pretty happy with the shot.

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When we're assessing the lie and we're looking at the thickness, the thicker

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the grass, the

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more, and that includes the thickness of the grass, how wet it is, how dense it

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is.

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The thicker it is, I think you should be a little bit more tolerant on yourself

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.

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You're going to tend to have more, like, there's a bigger difference between

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catching a little

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bit behind it and catching it perfectly, compared to if the grass was a little

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bit thinner or

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wispy.

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Okay, so that was ball sitting on top.

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Common place where you face that is in between the green and a bunker, where

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oftentimes the

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slope rolls down into the bunker, if the ball stops on the edge there, you'll

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typically

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have nothing behind the ball and you can easily do that kind of more shallow,

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just kind of

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brushing chip shot.

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Okay, so the other extreme is if the ball is sitting down all the way down on

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the dirt,

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just like this, where the ball is actually below the height of the grass.

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Now I have to get steeper in order to get into the golf ball, because if I was

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to do

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more of this sweeping stroke, you can see, if I did that, the club contacts the

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ground

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actually behind my right foot, and that's just a lot of grass to have to go

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through, it's

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going to slow it down and get in between the club facing the ball, it's not

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going to come

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out very well.

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So, I'm going to add more steepening elements.

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The steepening elements are going to be maybe a little bit more wrist set,

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maybe a little

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bit more weight on my front foot, maybe choking up, maybe a little bit more arm

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lift.

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Those are your big options, and then I'm going to be feeling like I'm swinging

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a little bit

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more down into the golf ball, but especially out of the thick rough or when the

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ball is

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sitting down, I want you to feel and make sure that you keep the club moving on

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the

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way through, and I want you to feel like you just kind of hit and stop.

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So, the two options are ball position more back, or ball position more forward.

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You're going to have the club face open regardless, so it really comes down to

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how we want the

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ball to react when it hits the ground.

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So, if I have, like this wouldn't be the right shot for this particular hole,

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but I'll see

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if I can pull it off.

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So, if I have the ball position back and my hands forward, and then I get steep

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, you'll

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see I get pretty clean contact, but the ball is going to have a lot of run, or

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a lot of

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roll to it.

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So, I would have to swing really soft in order to land this just before the

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green to have

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it roll the right amount, and if I swing really soft, it's not going to get

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through

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the thick rough very easily, so this probably wouldn't be the right shot here.

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So, then the other option is I have the club face still open, but instead of

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ball back

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hands forward, I'm going to have ball forward hands more neutral or hands

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forward, but closer

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to even with the golf ball.

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So, now the ball is hopefully going to pop up more as instead of coming out low

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and kind

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of driving.

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So, ball forward, still adding, adding some steepeners, came out a little bit

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faster

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than I thought it would, so that did end up closer than the shot that I just

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hit, where

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I hit the first shot better, so I hit technically a more clean, good shot, but

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the second one

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because I chose the right shot, I had more margin for error, I didn't hit it as

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good,

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and it actually ended up closer.

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Okay, so then the other option is, or the last option is when the ball is kind

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of sitting

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in the middle.

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This is where I think you can use the height of the ball to your advantage, and

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when the

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ball, you know, we talked about when the ball is sitting up, it's easy to go

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under.

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When the ball has a little bit of cushion, then it's really hard to go too far

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under

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it, so I can air on hitting a little bit more behind it, and the key there is

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just to keep

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the club moving.

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So, in some ways, on your standard rough shot, the easiest shot is going to be

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when the

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ball is sitting in the middle, not when it's all the way on the bottom, and not

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when it's

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all the way on the top, unless you have a lot of room to work with, then

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sitting on

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the top is pretty good, but the one that fits the wedge the best is when the

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ball is sitting

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in the middle.

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So, I highly recommend when you're practicing your wedge play, get your stroke

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dialed in,

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and then when you go to hit out of the rough, experiment with ball sitting up,

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ball sitting

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in the middle, ball sitting back, grass growing into me, grass growing away

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from me, clumps

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behind the ball, no clumps behind the ball, and you'll start to build a little

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bit more

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of a feel of how much energy you have to put into the club to get through

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specific rough,

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and that'll help you tremendously when you're trying to troubleshoot individual

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shots on

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the course.

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So, ball sitting in the middle, keep it moving, comes out nice, just like that.

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[BLANK_AUDIO]

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