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Overview and Goal1: Solid Contact

3h 30m
Lessons 37 lessons
Core Course

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The first goal of a bunker game is consistent, quality, sand contact

When assessing quality sand contact you'll want to monitor 3 things.

  1. Initial contact location
  2. Low point
  3. Divot depth

These three goals are largely influenced by the location of the upper body at setup, the narrowness of the backswing, and the position and tilt of the body during the release.

Video Transcript
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Hey golfers, welcome to the Bunker Wedge Play program.

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We're here we're going to build your stock bunker shot for green side bunkers.

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We are going to start with kind of the three same goals that we've used in some

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of the other

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wedge programs, but instead of saying constant radius for the bunker we're

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going to say more

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radius control, because there is going to be a little bit more of a narrow wide

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narrow

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happening here with the radius, but we still want to have stack centers and we

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still want

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to have a relatively smooth force, a little bit more kind of arm acceleration

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through the

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ball, but overall still pretty smooth.

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With the club goals we're going to focus a lot on the sand interaction with the

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club.

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We're going to focus a lot on sand contact.

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There are three major characteristics that I want you to focus on when you're

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looking

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or analyzing your sand club interaction.

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You want to look at where does the club hit the sand, so where's the entry

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point.

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You want to look at where's the low point or where's the bottom of the swing,

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and you

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want to look at the depth, both kind of when we look at the sand we can look at

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how if

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it's smooth at the bottom, that's usually a sign of more of the leading edge,

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or not

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enough bounce interaction, or if it's rough then the club face came in a little

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bit better.

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There's also a sound associated with really good sand contact that's a little

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bit more

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of a thwap or a little bit more of a thud.

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And then lastly for the club goals is to focus on the face rotation, so

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compared to a lot

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of the other shots, we don't want to have very much face rotation this way, we

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want

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to have more of the face staying the same compared to the path as it's coming

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through

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or close to it.

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So we want to finish with we can see the club face in a much more open or

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rotated position.

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So again our big goals are looking at sand contact, looking at the three, we

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got entry

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point, low point depth, and then our first goal is to establish one standard

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shot.

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We'll cover kind of the basics of how we're going to create our technique to

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get into

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a position more or less like this.

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And then we're going to talk about how we're going to vary distance, either

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with setup

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changes or with swing changes.

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And then lastly we'll talk about more controlling trajectory, so when you have

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that ball close

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to the lip and you have to get it up really high or if you have a little bit

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more distance

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to cover and you want to hit this thing a little bit lower and have it release,

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we'll

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talk about how to adjust those.

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We'll also talk about troubleshooting and working on variety of lies, but these

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are kind

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of our three big goals.

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One standard shot, a couple different distances, and then how to adjust it for

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trajectory.

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Alright, so for our first goal we're working on solid contact.

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In order to get solid contact, which really is about controlling the sand

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location, or

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the sand contact, we're going to be a little bit more lead leg bias, so setup

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keys are

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going to be more over that front foot.

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We want the nose kind of in line with the golf ball, so I say nose cover the

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golf ball.

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Not this way, I don't want to be leaning so that the club is out there.

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In fact, ideally I'll be further away than say a normal wedge shot, but from

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this view,

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my nose will be more or less in line with the golf ball, so the golf ball is

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going to

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be a little bit more forward.

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I lean onto the lead left and now my nose is in line this way with the golf

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ball.

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I want to have pretty level shoulders.

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I don't want to have a lot of tilt that tends to move the low point backward

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and brings in

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the chunk or the bladed shot.

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With the level shoulders and in an attempt to not let the club face close, we

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're going

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to favor more of the butterfly grip.

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If you're a really high handicap golfer, then just getting a little bit more

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neutral is fine,

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or even potentially playing your regular grip is fine.

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For most golfers who put in a little bit of effort with understanding their

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bunker, I

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tend to teach more of a butterfly grip, which is more of a strong left hand

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where it's on

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top, and then a really weak right hand where it is also on top.

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With the weak right hand, that really makes it hard to keep the club face

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closed.

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It's going to want to release and get more into that classic finish position we

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saw there

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with Rory on the intro slide.

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This right here, you can see how much that right hand is on top and released.

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This quickly, the club is here and the golf ball is here, so the club is

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actually past

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the golf ball on the way through.

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The best way to do that is to have more of the butterfly grip.

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That also encourages the wrist working more up and down instead of forward

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backward.

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The forward backward or round movements happening too much from the arm tends

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to cause more

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of some body compensations that throws the contact point too far behind.

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The majority of bad bunker players have the contact point well behind the golf

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ball,

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not just one to two inches or so.

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Lastly, the overall shape of the swing being a little bit more narrow but flat.

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We typically think of narrow swings being steep, but we want to have a narrow

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swing that's

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on more of a flat angle.

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Part of that has to do with our setup position, but part of it has to do with a

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little bit

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more of this kind of flattening or arm rotation.

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We have a couple key drills that we use.

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One drill is just establishing a consistent setup routine.

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This is best for newer golfers, but if you're an established golfer, you can

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double check

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your routine and see where you might have some blind spots or holes.

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Secondly, it would be more of the line drill, so working on contact location,

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low point

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location being low point ahead of the golf ball, and then depth being very

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shallow.

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I always use the example I heard James Seepman give about birthday cake of

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basically if you

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imagine that the bunker is a cake, you're going to try and take a long sliver

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of icing

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but not take any of the cake.

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That helps with the image of we want a long, shallow bottom of the swing, but

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we want the

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entry point a little bit behind the golf ball and the low point another inch in

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front of

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the golf ball.

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In the line drill, we cover how to draw the lines to help you with that

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feedback.

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Then lastly, the classic wood chopper drill helps with preventing too much tilt

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.

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In general, if you are coming down into the golf ball, if the club faces open

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and the

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club is coming down into the golf ball, it's very hard to blade the ball over

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the green.

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The majority of bad bunker shots, the club is going to bottom out behind and

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then it's

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going to be coming up into the ball, so it either goes too deep and it chunks

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it, leaves

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it in the bunker where it doesn't get deep enough, hits it in the middle of the

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ball,

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and blades it over the green.

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The wood chopper drill combines the axis tilt with the vertical arm movement in

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a really

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nice way to get the general shape going.

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In the next section, we're going to cover more about how we're going to vary

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the distance

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from our stock one-distance bunker shot.

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