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Aiming the Shot
19 lessons
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In this video, I discuss the importance of aiming in golf. I cover various aspects of aiming, including the physical technique and how to choose where to aim. I emphasize the need to calibrate my aim regularly and offer a step-by-step process for aiming my shots, involving selecting a target, aligning the club face and my body, and confirming my aim. I also discuss the importance of adapting my aim based on my individual tendencies and the specific scenario on the golf course, aiming for my average shots rather than trying to hit perfect shots. Finally, I caution against "fake aiming" and recommend practicing my alignment process on the range.
Video Transcript
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All right, golfers, welcome back.
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Here we are at a step number two, which is aiming the shot.
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We're going to talk about two different aspects of aiming the shot.
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One is the physical technique of aiming the shot, which we can see all these
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players demonstrating
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here.
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And then secondly, how do I choose where to aim?
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So if you remember, our goal is to boil everything down to what club, which
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shot, and then where
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aim?
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Where do I want to leave my next shot?
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This is the simple recipe.
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You would look at a scenario like this and you would typically think, "Oh, I'm
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just going
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to aim at the pin."
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But we're going to talk about, well, when should I potentially aim a little bit
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away
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from the pin?
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Maybe more of the middle of the green?
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Or maybe I should split the difference and kind of aim close to the pin, but a
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little
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bit on the fat side.
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So we're going to discuss why you might move your aim and the better you get,
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the more
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important the margins of where you aim become.
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With high school players, I often see whether it's a yard or two indifference
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and aim over
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the course of 18 holes that can have a huge impact on their score.
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I also want to draw attention to the fact that aim is one of those skills that
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pros
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work on consistently, your eyes, your posture.
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These things have a tendency to evolve and change over the weeks and days.
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And so I highly recommend that you calibrate your aim by using an alignment
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stick and having
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a process to help you get aimed more consistently.
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I find that many of my students when I take them on their course, especially if
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they're
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more of the 10 handicap and above, they tend to say, "Yeah, yeah, yeah, I aim,"
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but they're
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often well off, partly because they're not working on it and not calibrating it
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.
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Okay.
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So here's the simple process on how to aim your shot.
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Once we've chosen and we've committed to the club and what shot we're going to
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hit, you're
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going to stand behind the ball and we're going to pick an intermediate, sorry,
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you're going
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to pick a target which is more or less my start line.
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Where do I want the ball to take off?
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And you'll factor that into how you're going to curve the ball or if your ball
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naturally
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curves.
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Then we're going to pick an intermediate target, a spot between our golf ball
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and where we
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want the ball to take off, or so it's going to take off over this intermediate
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target.
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We're going to walk in 90 degrees to the ball and then we're going to set the
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club to the
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golf ball pointed at the target.
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So we're aligning the club face and we're going to set the body to the club,
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aligning
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the body in the club.
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This will also help with distance away from the ball, having a consistent setup
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with distance
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away from the ball as well as ball position by using this process.
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Then we can use one or multiple looks to confirm that our intermediate target
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is actually where
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we want to aim and then we're going to swing freely.
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So the key training points for how to aim the shot is we want to get good at
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picking
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intermediate targets.
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We want to practice stepping into the shot and visually orienting ourselves to
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where proper
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aim actually looks, doesn't always look straight until you've trained it.
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And then ideally we're going to practice some uncomfortable aiming.
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Uncomfortable aiming is basically when I feel like when it doesn't look right
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but I'm trusting
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my aiming process and kind of get over that fear or get over that hurdle of
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needing it
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to look perfectly every single time.
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So we'll do a quick little video where I'll walk through and talk about what I
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'm doing
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as we go through this aiming process.
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Okay, so here's a little clip of me going through a pre shot routine.
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I'm doing a few swings there to get my feel for the shot and now I'm forgetting
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about
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the feel.
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I'm aiming with the shaft, so if I come back here, I'm holding up the shaft so
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I can get
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it in line with that poker chip on the ground.
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We'll see a close up of that here shortly.
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Then I'm going to walk in, you'll see my eyes there are focusing on the poker
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chip.
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So I'm going to aim the club face at the poker chip, get my stance and
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everything square
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to the club face.
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And then I'm looking at the target just to confirm that everything matches, get
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set up
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in rhythm and then take the swing.
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So now we can watch the process from the target view.
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There's my swings.
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I'm aiming it.
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I am a four step guy, so I take four steps and then get into my setup.
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Looking at the poker chip, you can see my eyes looking there, I get my body
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square, look
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back at the ball, everything feels good.
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Now I'm going to look to the target to confirm that it looks the way it's
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supposed to, back
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to the poker chip of where I want it to start.
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Now during that, those kind of waggles right in here, I'm feeling the swing and
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then I'm
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going to execute the swing and react to the shot.
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Okay, here's a close up of the poker chip that I keep referring to and you can
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see it's
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just a normal yellow poker chip with a black dot that I've drawn in the middle.
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Having a small but precise target is one of the key components when you're
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working on
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your alignment process.
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Jack Nicholas used to use a T. I find that the black dot is a little bit better
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as far
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as contrast and it can really help you get very precise with your alignment.
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The process of aiming and walking into the shot is such a critical component
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that I highly
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recommend golfers practice just those last couple steps of walking in and then
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getting
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set up.
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Here you'll see I'm not even really looking at where the ball is finishing.
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I'm just practicing walking in, getting set at my rhythm using the intermediate
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target
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and then reacting to the shot.
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So you'll see each shot looking at the intermediate target, the target walking
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in, staying on
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my rhythm and then executing, I'm doing it with and without an alignment stick
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so that
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the aiming process becomes part of the swing and an automatic rhythm trigger
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for executing
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on the course.
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Okay, so hopefully you have a pre shot routine that's somewhat similar to that.
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I do want to highlight that your aiming process should include your natural
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tendencies.
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So as I go back to this, here's my normal kind of nine iron this week and then
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here's
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my punch eight iron, you'd see my aim for the orange, the eight iron is a
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little bit right.
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So if my tendency is to go a little bit right of where I think I'm aimed, like
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I tried to
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aim at the same spot and my tendency was a little bit more right.
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So with my punch, I would probably, if I'm playing that day, I'm probably going
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to be
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airing on aiming just a touch to the left.
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So here's how we're going to start thinking about aiming and we've got a couple
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different
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scenarios we'll look at here.
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So here we've got a flag and if I aim kind of that nine iron distribution
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pattern, this
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is a right handed distribution pattern, it'll kind of look like this.
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And my goal is to pick an aim that would give me the best overall average score
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for all
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those shots.
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That's what I mean by probability.
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So if I came back to this one, yeah, I've got a bunch of good shots here.
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Used all too bad, I've got these couple long or at least that one long in the
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bunker that
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might throw up and skew my average compared to this one where, okay, I've aired
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on playing
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just a little bit shorter.
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So these that were right next to the hole are now further away, but the overall
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average
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might be better because I'm avoiding that back bunker.
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So you can see the slight difference in the aims could result in a significant
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difference
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in my average score for that particular shot.
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Becomes more apparent when I have the pin not in the middle of the green.
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So if I took that same distribution, obviously the back bunker there is a prop,
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it's kind
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of recessed, it's a hard shot, and then this road, that one would be out of
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bounds.
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So those would really elevate my score.
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But if I took the complete safe approach on that pattern and I stayed short, I
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aimed
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at the middle of the green, well, middle of the green on this green because it
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's a long
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green would actually leave me a lot of 40, 50, 60 footers, especially all these
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.
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These are like 60, 70 feet.
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So now I'm probably going to have a bunch of three putts.
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So the best aim for this scenario is probably a little short and a little right
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.
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These are relatively flat, easy chip shots.
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There's going to be a lot of two putts and then the ones that I pull are going
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to give
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me the best chance at birdie.
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That is one of the hardest things to wrap your head around when you're thinking
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about your
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scoring from an average standpoint, is that your birdies in this scenario are
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either going
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to come from a really good long putt or a missed shot.
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It's not going to come from a pure perfect iron shot.
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Okay, and then here we have the front pin.
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If we aimed at it, these aren't too bad, but some of these, this isn't the most
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challenging
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up and down.
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So I might consider still just aiming at it to give myself the chance of
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getting the best
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or the highest number of birdies because these are not going to be too bad.
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I can probably actually putt those under normal situation.
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Definitely don't want to aim there at the middle of the green.
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That brings a lot of, there's a little ridge on this green and that brings some
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tougher
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lag putts in play.
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So possibly you could make the argument of aiming a little bit past it, but
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potentially
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I might consider just aiming at that flag because the risk here of leaving it
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short is
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not that hard of an up and down, but if you're not good at putting from the
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fringe then perhaps
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that would be a shot that you would want to air on a little bit past the pin.
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It's all adaptable to your individual tendencies.
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Now we can see if the distribution gets smaller.
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So for example, as I get into wedge distribution now I have a smaller,
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hopefully I have a smaller
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target or a smaller zone with the shorter clubs, I can start getting more and
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more aggressive
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with my aim.
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So one general trend is we'll talk about kind of like aiming more safe or more
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conservatively
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on the longer shots and taking your risks when they make a little bit more
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sense with
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your shorter clubs.
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So in general, how do we pick a smart aim?
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Ideally I want to be able to aim at it, but I'm looking at this distribution.
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I want to buffer away from the most penalizing hazards.
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So this is specifically looking at approaches, but we could use this to look at
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T-shots as
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well.
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So potentially if there's out of bounds down one side I would probably err on
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giving me
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some extra wiggle room away from that out of bounds.
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I want to play for my average shots, not my hero or best shot.
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So I will give people the plus 10 rule, which is usually when we're on the
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course, let's
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say we got 150 yards and they go grab their 8 iron and I'm like great, so you
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could hit
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this 160 and they'll look at me like no, but I have 150.
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I said okay well if you can't hit it 160 then your average probably isn't going
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to be 150.
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And we want to ultimately play our average if we can.
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Another just simple rule I'll give people is if you have reasonably sized
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greens, just
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pick a number for the back third.
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So if the middle of the green was 150 and the back of the green was 160, I'm
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going to pick
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that number.
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That'll generally give you a little bit more buffer as far as hitting it pin
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high.
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In general, amateurs almost never hit it past the pin on their approach shots
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and oftentimes
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that's because they don't know their actual distance.
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The second thing that they do is once I've given students some of these talks
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and we're
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trying to pick smart targets, often times they will do what I call fake aiming,
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which
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is essentially they will aim their body right, but they will be looking more at
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the pin.
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They'll be looking left like they're going to try to pull it back at the target
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.
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Tiger once said, I swing aggressively to hit my target.
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It might be, it referring to my target, might be 40 feet right at the pin, but
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that's the
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target that I swing at aggressively.
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So fake aiming usually leads to a non-aggressive swing because it's kind of
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trying to manipulate
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the club face or the path to get the ball to go not where my body is set up.
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Ultimately, I want to practice this alignment process, and I recommend when you
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practice
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on the range, moving that alignment process around more than not and not always
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having
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it at clear targets.
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Like here at the range, I like to have golfers aim at the middle of a bunker or
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the right
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edge of a green, not always at the pins.
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Golfers have a hard time, and I would say this is more kind of my high school
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college
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golfers, they have a hard time picking clear targets when it's not the pin.
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But if you practice that, it makes it a whole lot easier.
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So practice aiming at non-descript targets that you can get fully committed to
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that'll
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make it easier to commit to aiming away from pins, which is a great skill.
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So one baseline that I'll give people is using their fingers as kind of a zone
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to help them
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figure out if they're being stupidly aggressive or if they're playing kind of
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smart.
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So we'll have a little video here where we'll go through and walk through it.
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So basically, for an average golfer, a four-finger zone at an arm fully
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extended is reasonable.
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Now I would want you to practice this on the range, so we'll talk through how
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to do that.
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But basically targeting, if I can get 80% of my shots within this four-finger
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zone, that
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can help me pick my aim.
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So here's demonstrating two fingers in the other video we'll use for.
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And then basically I buffer so that my finger is not on a problem area.
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Like if I was aiming at this blue pin here, if I put the four fingers up, I
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might be flirting
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with this bunker, so I'd aim a little bit to the left of it and that would help
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me figure
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out how far left I need to aim.
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You'll see it clearer when we do the little finger aiming video.
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So you must practice to know your dispersions before that's going to work.
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When choosing a target, sometimes it's helpful to use the finger alignment so
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that you can
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pick a target that has a safe enough buffer away from hazards.
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So here's a simulated close-up where you can see I'm placing the middle of my
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middle finger
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on the flag and I can see that if I was to aim there, a good dispersion would
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put my
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right misses somewhere around here and my left misses would be somewhere around
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here.
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So if I was practicing, this would give me kind of an acceptable dispersion or
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this would
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give me a reference for when I'm analyzing how tight my dispersion is that can
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help me
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choose a smart aim when I'm on the course.
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Once I have my aim figured out, I can turn the fingers sideways and then trace
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that line
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back and that will help me pick an intermediate spot somewhere down here.
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I didn't get my fingers totally lined up with the camera but hopefully you can
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see how that
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process would look.
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We're practicing aiming.
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It gets simpler once you get to a certain threshold.
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So one of the questions is always, "Well, should I aim for the middle of the
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green?"
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Maybe.
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Here's how we're going to think through it.
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A lot of greens are kind of like a 30 by 30 yard zone.
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So that kind of gives us the surface area we're trying to hit into.
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If we did that, you've got about 45 feet on each side of the target.
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Now if you remember from our Be Your Own Coach program, we've got some
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benchmarks at different
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handicap levels.
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Now you may be different than this and you can vary it slightly but these are
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pretty
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good for the majority of golfers.
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So if we're looking at a 45 foot circle or 45 foot radius away from the pin for
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a 100
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shooter that comes down to about a 100 yard shot, for a 90 shooter it's about
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125, playing
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a little bit for an 80 shooter.
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It's at about 150 yards, maybe a little bit less than that.
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And then if you're a scratch golfer, it's probably close to 175.
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So basically if you're outside of that for your handicap level, you should
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probably aim
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at the middle of the green unless there's a really good reason not to.
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So that can help simplify things and give you a reasonable expectation as far
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as what
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to expect distance wise and when you can start to get a little bit more
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aggressive.
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So it clearly defines some of the zones that I talked about for helping you
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with your risk
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management.
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Okay, so quick recap on aiming.
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Remember the three big questions.
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What club am I going to hit?
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Which shot am I going to hit and where am I going to aim?
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Where am I going to aim is one of the most critical for helping me get fully
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committed
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to the shot and I want to know am I going to aim at the pin, middle of green or
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playing
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a smart like in between kind of the most aggressively conservative target that
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I can
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pick on the slight fat side.
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To be good at aiming, you have to practice aiming, pros demonstrate that time
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and time
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again.
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They are constantly calibrating and checking in with their setup and how it
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looks and then
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picking some smart targets and to help you with picking your smart targets, we
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can use
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our finger alignment system to help us create some more accurate visuals for
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being able to
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see the zones better.
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So in the next step, we're going to talk about the mental side of executing
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your best shot.
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