Golf Smart Academy Golf Smart Academy

Improve Your Lead Wrist Timing for Better Consistency

Prefer the video version? Check it out →

Improve Your Lead Wrist Timing for Better Consistency
By Tyler Ferrell · March 1, 2016 · Updated April 16, 2024 · 4:47 video

What You'll Learn

One of the most important pieces of clubface control happens in your lead wrist. If you struggle with slices, blocks, or a clubface that seems to stay open too long, the issue is often not just whether you move the lead wrist correctly, but when you move it and how long you keep moving it. A useful feel for this is the motorcycle move—a flattening or flexing of the lead wrist that helps the clubface close earlier so your body can keep rotating without needing last-second compensation. When you understand the timing of that move, your release becomes more predictable and your ball flight becomes much easier to manage.

What the Motorcycle Move Actually Is

The motorcycle feel refers to flattening the lead wrist, or moving it from extension toward flexion. If you imagine revving the throttle on a motorcycle, that is the basic motion golfers use as a feel.

At address, many players begin with the lead wrist in a fairly neutral condition, but even from there the wrist often has some natural extension built in. As you flatten or flex that lead wrist, the clubface begins to close. That is the key effect.

This matters because the body is constantly moving during the downswing. If the face stays too open for too long, your body has to slow down, stand up, or throw the clubhead to square it. If the face is organized earlier by the lead wrist, you can keep turning and let the pivot support the strike.

In simple terms:

The Two Main Problems: Bad Timing or the Wrong Amount

When golfers have trouble with this move, it usually comes down to one of two things:

Some players simply do the move too late. Others do not do enough of it to make a difference. And some start correctly, then abandon it halfway down.

If you are trying to improve consistency, this distinction is important. You can know what the motorcycle move is and still hit poor shots if you apply it at the wrong point in the swing. Likewise, you can have decent timing but still leave the face open if the wrist never changes enough.

So before you assume your path, pivot, or release is the problem, make sure your lead wrist is being trained in a way that actually influences the face.

Why the Timing Matters So Much

The most common mistake is waiting too long. Many golfers try to flatten the lead wrist around waist height in the downswing, but by that point the club is already moving too fast and too close to impact. If you wait until then, you are usually forced into some kind of compensation.

That compensation often looks like this:

When the face is still open late in the downswing, your body senses the need to save the shot. That is why a late wrist move can create so much inconsistency. You may hit one push, then a wipey slice, then a pull when you over-correct.

The better pattern is to have the motorcycle move initiated before the club reaches waist height. Ideally, it starts during transition, when the lower body begins changing direction and the club is still organizing.

That earlier timing gives you room to do all the things strong ball-strikers do well:

In other words, an early lead wrist change does not just control the face. It helps the rest of your motion work better.

Transition Is the Ideal Window

Many elite players organize the lead wrist during transition because it is the most powerful time to do it. The club is still changing direction, the body is beginning to unwind, and the face can be adjusted before speed builds too much.

Some golfers prefer to feel the move at the end of the backswing. Others feel it as the start of the downswing. In practice, those can be nearly the same moment. The swing is not a rigid stop-and-start motion. It is a blend.

As your backswing finishes, your lower body starts leading, followed by the torso, then the arms and hands. That means the line between “backswing” and “downswing” is often blurry. So do not get too hung up on labels. The real checkpoint is simpler:

The lead wrist should be organizing the face before the club gets down to waist height.

If your feel is “I do it to finish my backswing,” that can work. If your feel is “I do it to start down,” that can also work. The key is that the face is not still waiting to be squared late.

Do Not Bail Out on the Move During the Release

The second major timing mistake is starting the motorcycle move correctly, then quitting on it too early.

This is extremely common. A golfer may begin to flatten the lead wrist in transition, but then as the club approaches the ball, the motion disappears. The wrist goes back toward extension, the face opens, and the player has to rescue the shot with the hands.

Instead, you want the feel that the motorcycle move continues well into the release—almost as if you are still doing it through impact and into the early follow-through.

That does not mean the lead wrist will literally stay in the same flexed condition forever. As the trail side extends and the arms lengthen through the strike, the forces of the swing will naturally begin to pull you out of that position. But for most players, the correct feel is to keep motorcycling longer than they think.

A good thought is:

This longer application helps create more effective lag in the lead wrist. Golfers often think of lag only in terms of the angle between the shaft and trail arm, but there is also lag in how the lead wrist controls the face. If that wrist keeps organizing the club as the body turns, the strike becomes much more stable.

How Lead Wrist Control Helps the Body Move Better

One reason this concept is so important is that lead wrist timing does not work in isolation. It influences how the rest of your body is allowed to move.

When the clubface is closing on time, your body can keep doing the things that produce solid, repeatable contact:

If the face is late, your body often senses danger and changes course. You may lose posture, stall the pivot, or throw away angles. So while the motorcycle move sounds like a wrist issue, it is really a bridge between clubface control and body motion.

This is why players who improve their lead wrist timing often say the swing suddenly feels easier. They are no longer trying to square the face at the last instant. The face is already in a usable position, so the body can stay athletic and keep moving.

What Ball Flights Usually Point to a Timing Problem

If you tend to hit slices or pushes, there is a good chance your lead wrist timing is part of the problem.

Slice

A slice usually means the face is open relative to the path. If the lead wrist does not flatten early enough, the face remains too open and the ball curves to the right.

Push or block

A push often means the face is open to the target, even if it is not dramatically open to the path. This can happen when you deliver the club from the inside but never close the face in time. The shot starts right and stays there.

In both cases, ask yourself two questions:

  1. Did I start the motorcycle move early enough?
  2. Did I keep it going long enough?

If the answer to either is no, the face will tend to lag behind the motion of your body.

That is why this concept is such a valuable direction fix. Before you overhaul your path, make sure the face is not simply being left open by poor lead wrist timing.

How Much Motorcycle Should You Feel?

The exact amount varies from player to player, but most golfers learning this move need to feel more than they think. The reason is simple: under speed, many players underdo it, or they start it and immediately lose it.

Your goal is not to create an exaggerated bowed-wrist look for its own sake. Your goal is to close the face enough that your body can continue rotating without panic. If you are still hitting weak pushes and slices, you probably have not done enough, or not for long enough.

A useful benchmark in practice is this: keep working until the face starts looking too closed and the ball begins turning left with draws or even pull-draws. That tells you the face is no longer lagging open.

Once you can produce that ball flight, you know the clubface is under better control. Then you can fine-tune path and pivot. But if the face is still open, path changes alone often will not solve the problem.

How to Apply This in Practice

The best way to train this is to separate the two timing checkpoints: when it starts and how long it continues.

1. Rehearse the move slowly

Make slow-motion swings and feel the lead wrist flattening during transition. Do not wait until the club is already halfway down. Start the motion as the direction changes.

2. Check the waist-high position

By the time the club reaches waist height in the downswing, the face should already look more organized. If you are only beginning the move there, you are late.

3. Keep the feel through the strike

Make rehearsal swings where you feel the motorcycle move continuing all the way to a short follow-through. This helps prevent the common mistake of bailing out just before impact.

4. Watch your ball flight

If the ball still starts right and curves farther right, the face is still open. Keep exaggerating the earlier and longer wrist feel. If the ball starts drawing or even over-drawing, you know the face is finally responding.

5. Adjust path only after the face improves

Once you can create a consistent draw or pull-draw, the face is likely no longer the main issue. At that point, you can refine path and body alignments with much more clarity.

The Big Idea

Better players do not just square the face at the bottom by instinct. They organize it earlier. The motorcycle move is one of the clearest ways to train that skill. If you flatten the lead wrist during transition and keep that feel going through the release, you give your body permission to rotate, stay in posture, and deliver the club more consistently.

So if you are fighting slices, blocks, or a face that seems hard to control, do not just ask whether you are making the move. Ask when you are making it and whether you are staying with it long enough. Those two details often make the difference between a last-second save and a strike that feels organized from the top down.

See This Drill in Action

Watch the full video lesson with demonstrations and visual guides.

Watch the Video Lesson