WEBVTT

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This drill is when you absolutely have to fade it.

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So I know that a number of golfers when working on the tour pattern of getting

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a little bit

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more shaft rotation, a little bit more shallow, a little bit more side bend and

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body rotation.

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The path seems like it's almost always going to come from the inside out.

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So in this video, I'm going to give you a couple strategies that you can use

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when you

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absolutely have to curve the ball.

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Now the easiest one that you can do is you take your normal pattern and let's

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say you

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have a little bit of an into out path, you just open the club face slightly

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before you

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take your grip and then you keep everything the same.

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If you keep everything the same, then the club face will be slightly open to

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the path.

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But now what you'll hit is more of a push fade.

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If I have the club face slightly open and I come a little bit more from the or

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I do my

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normal swing from the inside, that's going to have a little bit of a push fade

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to it.

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And the problem with the push fade is it's just going to launch a little higher

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than

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you might need because oftentimes when you have to fade it, you want to get it

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to launch

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a little bit lower.

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So if you're going to go for that more of the slice, the controlled slice, we

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're going

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to have to get it to launch lower.

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We're going to have to move the path back to the left instead of having it into

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out.

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Now hopefully the power of the system is you have different tools you can use

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to move the

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path.

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The one that I think is the easiest is to just try and rotate your body a

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little bit harder

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while staying more slightly on top.

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So you're going to take away a little bit of that Jackson 5 and you're going to

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cover

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the ball a little bit more with your upper body.

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If you really need to launch it low left and I do recommend that you practice

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this, you

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would want to actually keep your upper body back or your lower body back behind

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and get

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your upper body leaning forward.

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So basically getting very much out and across, kind of like so, that will steep

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en the angle

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of attack, move the path left, and if you prevent the club face from closing

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too much,

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it's going to curve back to the right.

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So what we're going to do here is we're going to try and basically come over

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the top, keep

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this shoulder a little bit high, and rotate that upper body.

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That will help give me more of a massive curve.

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If I just need a little curve, I guess we'll do that one first.

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If I just need a little bit of a curve, then all I have to do is turn my body a

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little bit

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more than my normal pattern to make the path go left and it'll give me more

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shaft lean,

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which will delay the closing of the club face.

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So that had a little bit of a pull to it, caught it just the touch fit heavy so

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it came

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up a little bit short, but that had the good little five yard fade that I would

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be trying

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to hit.

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I'll try to do it again without getting quite so steep, which most faders do

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get a little

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on the steep side.

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So we'll just try to add a little bit more body rotation.

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So there I got more of kind of the shallower contact that was more of a 10-20

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or a 10-15

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yard draw or fade.

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Okay.

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So now we'll go back to the other side of the line.

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If I try to really exaggerate it so I can hit kind of the massive peeler, I've

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got to

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do everything I can to get the path left and delay the closing of the club face

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.

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I'm not going to motorcycle quite as hard.

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Maybe just, you know, say 20% of what I normally do.

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And I'm going to really focus on that lower body kind of staying back and that

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upper body

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turning and covering and I may even add a little bit of the tumble or throwing

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the club

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outside in or steepening it just a bit kind of like this so that I can get

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everything

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to work a little bit more to the left.

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I'm not going to open my stance dramatically.

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I'm just going to do this one more with the movement.

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So now that you can hopefully see had a much more left path and that was a good

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20-yard

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fade with a mid-iron.

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It's a pretty significant amount.

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If I did that with, say, four iron or three wood, I would have pretty much

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sliced.

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So if you absolutely have to fade it, those body movements will give it to you.

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What I would then recommend in practice is trying to hit big draws where you

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have more

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of kind of an early extension pattern flip to hit all different heights and big

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amount

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of curves and then alternate to more of those over the top slices.

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In doing so, you'll learn how each of the movements affects the ball flight.

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If you are a, let's say, 15 handicap or above, I would try to keep the swing

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the same and

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just adjust the grip.

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So if you normally hit a draw, you'll just hit a push fade and you just have to

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play

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plenty of space for it to start right of your target and launch a little bit

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higher.

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So you may have to take less club to keep it down.

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You may have to aim really far to the left.

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You've got to practice that in order to be able to pay it off.

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But if you're a single-digit handicapper and you're trying to work on having

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this shot

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in your bag to kind of get you out of trouble, I would highly recommend using

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more body rotation

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and just not quite as much axis tilt, so less of that Jackson 5 as the primary

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means for

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how you're going to get the ball to curve.

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But then after doing the drill, it can always be good to dial everything back

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in.

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Back into your stock little 5-yard draw.